16 Apr 2009

In Praise of Pinotage: a New Perspective

In Praise of Pinotage: a New Perspective

Not that I am biased, being South African and all, but I am a big believer in South African wines. Over the years we have spoken to a great many people who may like South African wines, but have nothing good to say about Pinotage and would never want to drink another pinotage ever again.

While this may be a very broad stroke of the brush, Pinotage has had its problems. Poor vineyard management and over cropping are just a start. The grape is a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsaut (AKA Hermitage) which is a work horse grape from the South of France. Pinot Noir on the other hand, is one of the most noble of grapes and requires a lot of nurturing in the vineyard to show its full potential. Why have people always treated Pinotage more like Cincaut than the noble Pinot Noir? More importantly, why did the curious Professor Perold decide to cross Pinot Noir and Cincaut in the first place?
 
One major complaint from the Pinotage haters fraternity is the characteristic smoky, rubber, charcoal flavors that appear in the wine (possibly a result of volatile esters). Back in the day, growing up in South Africa no one knew any better, but we drank it anyway and complaining was not encouraged. Pinotage has been relegated to 2nd class status in the US, being scorned as a course red with burnt rubber pungency. In the past few years we have seen a few producers really stepping up their pinotage game, and the negative elements of the grape are being worked out.

The result is a wine with good fruit and structure, with flavors of currant, plum, banana and fig and a really pleasant smooth mouth feel (a good example that we currently have plenty of is Neil Ellis Pinotage 2007 for 15.99). Cooler climate examples (yes, some producers have figured out to treat it more like Pinot Noir…totally exciting) are more complex with a touch of elegance. For a cooler climate Pinotage try the Southern Right Pinotage 2007 for $21.99
 
The best thing to do with Pinotage is drink it with food, and my personal favorite is home made burgers, which are often overlooked (just like Pinotage). Here is one of many possible recipes:
 
1 lb ground sirloin
1 large egg
½ cup wheat panko or almond meal
3 table spoons spicy brown mustard
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional)
3 table spoons soy sauce
 
Mix all above ingredients in a large bowl until well mixed. Shape 4 – 6 patties for grilling. Place in a fridge for 15 – 20 minutes (this helps them stick together better while grilling).
 
Slice one large onion and grill while burgers are grilling.
 
Toppings:
Mushrooms
Crumbled blue cheese
1 teaspoon butter
 
In a small pan, melt butter and sauté mushroom slices. When mushrooms are nearly cooked, add blue cheese crumbles and allow to melt. Top burgers with mushrooms/blue cheese mixture and grilled onions and enjoy!
 
Now do the test for yourself. Pinotage is absolutely made for burgers hot off the grill and the blue cheese is a great addition. We probably have the most extensive Pinotage selection in the USA (most wine stores would not consider that bragging), and not to play favorites, but besides the two previously mentioned, others on my Pinotage shortlist are the Spice Route Pinotage 2007 for $18.99 or Ken Forrester Petit Pinotage 2007 for $8.99
 
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Posted by Oliver 10:26:00

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